By J.P.
In April 2012, Tasting Bites addressed Chef José Andrés and his Jaleo Bethesda restaurant in two separate posts (post 1 and post 2). Actually, Jaleo Bethesda continues to be one of my favorite restaurants in the Washington DC area. Further, in January 2013, Tasting Bites reviewed Zaytinya, another of Andrés’ restaurants. This time we went to Minibar, Andrés’ upper scale dining experience. Minibar opened in 2003, on the second floor of Café Atlantico, where 12 people a night were accommodated in two consecutive seatings of 6 persons each. Café Atlantico closed down in mid- 2011 and was replaced by America Eats Tavern which opened on July 4, 2011 and closed one year later. Minibar, however, remained at the same place until mid-2012 and, in November 2012, reopened at a new location on E Street, home of the former Zola Wine and Kitchen, a wine store and cooking school associated with the now defunct Zola restaurant.
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| Chef José Andrés Photo credit: Wikipedia |
For some time we had planned a visit to Minibar and finally, in June 2013, we got bold enough to call and give my credit card details to hold my reservation. Until recently only reservations 30 days in advance were accepted, but rules have changed. Of course, all these restrictions are influenced by market demand. I contacted the restaurant 10 days in advance and requested a Friday evening or a Saturday evening for two. I was then offered Friday at 8:30 pm. Reservations are available for 6:00 pm, 6:30 pm, 8:00 pm and 8:30 pm.
Arriving at the restaurant we were received in a small hall (with no furniture) and conducted to a lounge to the right that accommodates the 6 diners that will share with you the 6-seat section of the bar where dinner will be served. In the lounge you are greeted with a drink. A bottle of Spanish Cava is waiting for you there and you do not pay for it. The Cava was accompanied by a crunchy fish amuse-bouche.
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| Cava and amuse-bouche |
You are then moved to the bar that seats a total of 12 people. We were in the first group of 6 to be seated. The other group of 6 came in later, supposedly from a similar small lounge, maybe opposite to that we had been before, i.e., to the left from the entrance hall. The fix-price menu ($225) is the only option, except of course for the usual variations owing to allergies, etc. Three wine-pairing options ($75, $125 and $200) are offered in addition to a non-alcoholic beverage pairing for $45. We decided to order a bottle of wine instead. This would be less expensive and would avoid the inconvenience of being overwhelmed by a wide variety of wines. It turned out to be a wise choice.
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| Barmini, bar adjacent to Minibar |
Despite the fact that the wine list was extremely limited and included only one Spanish red wine, choosing this particular wine was a great option. The Bierzo, Villa de Corullón, 2006, Descendientes de J. Palacios (www.rarewineco.com/producer/descendientes-bierzo), was excellent ($97). This wine from the Bierzo region in Spain is made 100% from the Mencia grape. I had several times before another Bierzo from Descendientes de J. Palacios: Pétalos del Bierzo. However, the Villa de Corullón is clearly one notch above. In 2009, the Wine Spectator’s rating for the Villa de Corullón, 2006 was 92, with the following comment: “Distinctive and alluring, this sinuous red delivers cherry, cranberry, sandalwood, tobacco and mineral flavors over light, firm tannins that give way to a floral and licorice finish. Drink now through 2014”.
1. Oaxacan marshmallow (blends the smokiness of mezcal with the bright sweetness of Meyer lemon juice).
2. Asian “Coca de Vidrio” is a non sweet variation of Coca de Vidrio, a Catalan dessert in which a thin crust is caramelized with sugar and anise liqueur as it leaves the oven giving it a glassy finish.
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| Oaxacan Marshmallow |
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| Asian Coca de Vitrio |
3. Parmesan leaf (the waiter/chef preparing this tapa called it “Cheese and Crackers”—it was accompanied by a lemon marmalade).
4. Popcorn empanada.
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| Parmesan leaf |
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| Popcorn empanada |
5. When Pigs Fly, a meringue filled with bacon ice cream.
6. Foie bomb (a bomb or bombe is an ice cream dessert frozen in a spherical mould. In this case, however, what we had was a warm foie gras foam encapsulated in a sweetish gelatin).
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| When Pigs Fly |
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| Foie bomb or bombe |
7. Sea bream tempura. The printed menu I received said churro tendon , a gelatinous veal tendon breaded in panko, fried and coated in cinamon and sugar. There was a replacement, however.
8. Almond tart with blue cheese (a lot of mise-en-scène in the preparation; the tart was made of flourless dough in an egg mold, which is then dipped into nitrogen).
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| Almond tart preparation |
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| Almond tart with blue cheese |
9. Waldorf salad.
10. Chicken “Shawarma” (shawarma usually refers to a Levantine Arab meat preparation, where lamb, chicken, turkey, beef, veal, or mixed meats are cut into thin slices and grilled on a vertical spit; in our case, it came with yogurt sauce, wrapped in eatable starch paper).
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| Waldorf Salad |
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| Chicken Shawarma |
11. Thai soup.
12. Baby carrots with coconut and curry.
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| Thai soup |
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| Baby carrots |
13. Beech mushroom risotto with summer truffle (beech mushroom is native to East Asia, but is cultivated locally in Europe, North America and Australia).
14. Smoked oysters with escabeche (escabeche is a Mediterranean dish of either poached or fried fish marinated in an acidic mixture before serving; escabeche may also refer to the marinade itself).
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| Beech mushrooms |
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| Smoked oysters |
16. Grilled spot prawns, peanut butter and honey.
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| Preparation of fabes con almejas |
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| Fabes con almejas |
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| Spot prawns |
17. Espardenyes with bone marrow (sea cucumber with bone marrow—the waiter/chef called it “Spanish Surf and Turf”—preceeded by a “One Bite Oyster Leaf”)
18. Roast squab with seaweed.
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| One bite oyster leaf |
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| Espardenyes with bone marrow |
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| Roast squab |
A lot of interesting ideas and everything was very tasty. I thought, however, that the pace was a bit too fast. As I wanted to take photos and write my notes, I was caught several times having to rush because the next tapa was already coming. Also, I hardly had time to exchange views with A.M. about each course, which is a key part of the enjoyment. Asked at the end by one of the chefs about my favorite tapa, I responded with no great conviction that it was the “Spanish Surf and Turf”. In truth, I needed more time to absorb the wide variety of flavors in these tapas and give a more reliable answer to his question. As the courses went quickly by the nuances remained forever mixed up in my mind.
And it was not over yet. Desserts were still to come.
19. Dragon’s Breath with Hot Toddy Shot (whisky, hot tea and vanilla).
20. Christmas in June (green apple and granita).
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| Dragon´s breath |
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| Christmas in June |
21. Coconut Sticky Rice with Mango (with peanut cream).
22. Piña Colada Tablet.
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| Coconut sticky rice |
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| Piña Colada tablet |
23. Sablé Bombom.
24. Chocolate Tablet.
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| Sablé bombom |
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| Chocolate tablet |
25. Jurassic Park (two chocolate pieces in the shape of a bone hidden within the previous dessert).
26. Chicharron (chicharron is a dish made of fried pork or chicken rinds; in this case, it was covered with white chocolate).
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| Jurassic Park |
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| Chicharrón |
Mid-way through the desserts we were moved to Barmini. A door from the Minibar opens into Barmini, a bar and cocktail lab that can also be reached from the street without going through Minibar. Lots of people were there, in addition to the twelve of us coming from Minibar. Great atmosphere! At Barmini, I had a glass of Late Harvest Vidal, 2006, produced by Linden Vineyards (www.lindenvineyards.com) on the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains to complete the meal.
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| Barmini |
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| Linden Late Harvest 2006 |
A less than favorable review of Minibar by the Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema in December 2012 triggered a reply by José Andrés. Actually, the Washington Post review was a bit too harsh as I do believe that dining at Minibar is a worthwhile experience. However, unless I have with me a real foodie out-of-town visitor, I am not sure I would go back to Minibar regularly—not only price was a bit excessive, but the fast pace does not make it a really relaxing experience.
Dinner for two added up to $734, including tax, tips and $109 of wine.
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